Let's get down to lining details...careful, this is very picture heavy. I learned how to do this lining from Trena's blog The Slapdash Sewist and it's made my sewing life much easier and my sheath dresses so comfortable.
|stretch silk lining|
|Interfaced lining at front edge where facing would usually be.|
The dress is lined to the edge but since the turquoise silk was the perfect match for the color in the dress, I made piping to go around the neckline and armholes. I used rayon rat tail as the filler, cut 2" bias strips of silk, stitched with my buttonhole foot close but not tight against the rat tail, trimmed the binding to 5/8" from the rat tail and hand stitched the piping in place since I didn't want it to move when I sewed it all together.
|I mark my piping after adding the filler for more accuracy.|
|Piping basted into place|
I sew all the lining pieces in the same manner, except I keep the back center seam open since there's no zipper there. Next I sew that back seam edge to each side of the zipper tape, by machine, not by hand. First I lay out my dress and lining, wrong sides together. Some people may not have to do that step but I have to see what's happening in front of me....I seem to lack the inner geometry gene.
Now I know that I want to turn under the lining seam allowance along the center seam and sew it to the zipper tape. I pull one section away and pin the other directly to the zipper tape, this time right side of lining to the inside of the zipper tape:
|Right side of lining seam allowance pinned to zipper tape|
|Viking zipper foot and needle position 4.0 to the left|
|Lining has been sewn to both sides of the zipper tape|
|Neck seam before it has been graded, clipped and pressed....those steps make all the difference.|
|Grading the seam, clipping and pressing makes all the difference.|
Final step is similar to a yoked shirt "burrito" technique" where you roll up a garment section in order to sew smoothly and then pull the garment through an opening. In this case, you will sew the right side of the garment armhole to the right side of the lining armhole.
|I like to start by laying the dress flat again.|
|One armhole of fabric twisted together|
|"Rolled bundle of armhole" placed on top of right side of opposite fashion fabric and lining armhole|
|Right sides of armhole pinned together with that "roll" inside.|
Since I had piped that seam, I made sure to again stitch it with my zipper foot inside the basted piping line.
Here's the part that might scare you the first time....and the reason why I am always laying out my dress flat to make sure I am sewing the correct sides together. It's best to grade and clip the armhole seam now, before you pull it through the shoulder. But if you have any doubt that you haven't done this procedure correctly, then I'd suggest pulling the garment through the shoulder first and checking your work...then pull it back and do that clipping. Take your time and you can clip with impunity...and good pressing and grading on curves means a snug flat seam. I understitch the armhole lining and seam allowances together also. If you use your machine you can't stitch all the way but I used a prick stitch and hand stitched the armhole all the way around. You can see the small prickstitch in some of those pictures.
After you have stitched the two armholes, you can then pin the side seams of the dress together, right sides together, and do the same for the lining. One benefit you will notice from this technique is that it makes it easy to take the side seams in or out on a lined dress.
Next time I might try the couture lining technique from Susan Khalje's article in Threads 125 which uses a lot of handsewing....perfect for cold winter nights in front of the TV with Mr. Lucky,
Speaking of Mr. Lucky, here's proud picture of the new canning expert at our house. I made our first batch of these Pickled Dilly Green Beans Pickled Dill Green Beans a week ago and they are wonderfully crisp and tasty. Mr. Lucky helped me while I was working on church course materials over the last few day by making the second batch himself. 14 half-pints of pickles and a proud guy in the house, now that's priceless.