This weekend I returned to the next steps on the Olympia Coat project. I abandoned the idea of the windowpane pocket pattern when I saw that it would sit on top of the French dart that I had to add to the coat front panel. I did cut open the dart so it would have less bulk but I still didn't like three layers of the pocket sitting there.
|French dart cut open|
|Lowered side patch pocket|
|Lining "favoring" the fashion fabric|
I topstitched with red topstitching thread and placed the pockets 1" lower to avoid the bulk of the dart and give my long arms a slightly more comfortable location.
Now the back seam is sewn and then the upper shoulder and sleeve seam. I hand basted those seams first to make sure that I got the herringbone fabric to chevron properly.
I'm using a large button so the first step is to measure out a space large enough for the button to slide through easily. Sew the seam with that space left unstitched.
I sewed the facing piece the same way then clipped carefully to create the inseam "lips."
Sew the "lips" of the outer seam to the facing seam.
Press all seams open and test your button:
My test worked so today I will take these markings and transfer them to my coat collar seam and facing seam. Fred's directions are interesting at this point. Rather than sew the lining pieces to the facing, she had you sew the facings to the coat first then work on sewing that underarm dart and underarm sleeve with the gusset. Again I think I will be doing hand basting to make sure all my layers are stable and work together.
Just as an aside, I think the real master of creative in-seam buttonholes was Lois Ericson. Issue 103 (Oct/Nov 2002) of Threads has a beautiful article describing the process with the loveliest examples of her creativity. I'm just happy with my simple one here but would love to plan a garment with such beauty as well as functionality.
Next time you see pics I should have the coat body assembled and be ready to start the lining process. Deep breathes....