First Make of 2025, First Studio Day and First Dinner Party

Even though I had several outside obligations in the past week, I was still able to sew up one new garment, a tunic version of one of my standards, Vogue 9330. I used a fleecy backed cotton blend knit I presume from Fabric Mart in the leopard print that was everywhere in the fall and in Europe on our Christmas trip. I'm never one to follow fashions but some how my procrastination with this fabric and current fashion trends just happened to meet up in the universe's space and time continuum. Since my other versions are far warmer, made with Polar Tec or warm wool knits, I made adjustments to keep this version cosier. I raised the neck and drafted a layered collar folding over in the front. I added a wide wrist cuff with 1 1/4 elastic inside since the original pattern sleeves are much too drafty for our current cold weather. What I love about this pattern is the side panels which extend on the side and under the arm. In my other versions I used the fabric underside for subtle contrast but the seams get lost in this print. Instead I put in side seam pockets using the excellent tutorial which Sew tessuti had just published on YouTube and IG reels. It was simpler to watch youtube in slow motion than to pull out a sewing book to tell me how to make the pocket. But I'm still clinging to my large sewing book library for comfort and inspiration. There's a band on the bottom now and I decided to gather it with some elastic and add a big bow because...well, because everything looks better with a big bow on it. So I think it also qualifies for the Janaury 2025 Make a Garment. Month challenge, Jazzy January. I was able to finish my tunic on Saturday becasue I had scheduled myself a "studio day." At least twice a month I send out an email invite and IG notice that I'll be home working in my sewing space and would love the company of any creative friends...who knit, sew, embroider, bead, whatever. And yesterday I had so much fun when long time friend, Rae Cumbie of Fit for Art patterns showed up to catch up. Rae and I hadnt'seen each other in person since before Covid but two weeks ago I went the book signing for Rae and Carrie Emerson's new book on Quilted jackets and we briefly reunited. It was held at Baltimore's Handcraft Happy Hour shop and was so impressed by another woman entrepreneuer, Jenni, creating a community of creative people. (Yes, that's her book on my sewing table) Rae just happened to come by when I had just cut out the first of several projects for my American Sewing Guild Northern Virginia winter sewing retreat in two weeks. I'm making a knit robe from her Tabula Rasa jacket pattern for our March Florida visit because I've enjoyed the rayon one I made so many years ago that it's looking tatty. And another project will be refashioning a lovely scalloped vintage mink collar to put on a sweather that will have more fabric and roving needle felting on it, another retreat project. I've learned over the decades not to bring anything too complicated so the three dozen of us can chat and laugh and enjoy each other's company without scrunching my forehaed in frustration trying to figure out complicated sewing instructions...although several of still roar with laughter at our frustration trying to follow Trudy of Hot Patterns demonstate the twisted fabric convolutions of the Grecian inspired Three Graces twist top. And why was I otherwise occupied this week? Well, every year for a few decades we have donated a dinner for my Towson Unitarian Universalist annual church auction. This year I offered "greatest hits" meaning the recipes that people wanted from me after those previous dinners. So although I knew all the recipes, it was a busy week of shopping and cooking for a four course meal and in my rush I usually forgot to take pictures. SO there are a few here and if you want the recipes let me know ans I'll post links. We have appetizers of cheese coins from Cooks Illustrated and a shrimp, mango avocado salsa served with tortilla chips, inspired by our ten years as snowbirds in FL when we offered a "Floribbean" dining experience. Then there's fish soup with garlicky rouillede on homemade bread and Belgian beer base beef carbonnade, a stew that's almost carmelized...recipes that I just had to find after we enjoyed them on a Belgium to Amsterdam boat and bike trip. The winner is always hot sticky toffee pudding for dessert from our much loved UK. But speaking of pictures, that's my biggest disappointment returning to Blogger. I can still easily download my pictures. But previously when I was writing my post I could insert pictures and wrap copy around them. Maybe because I'm an Apple gal, that ability seems to be lost. I'll get to the library computers one of these days and see if that capability exists on their PCs. So it's a big picture dump at the end, sorry for such poor formatting. And I am formatting paragraphs as I type and I see spacing but it's all one big ramble when this posts. Hmmm, maybe I'm not meant to return to blogging...or maybe I just need to revisit which platform I'm using and make a change to something like Wordpress. Low tech gal like me is annoyed but like my sewing, persistent.

Merry Christmas Then and Now

Merry Christmas from my screen to yours.  
Yes, this was the Christmas outfit that my mother made many decades ago when this was the photo for our family Christmas card.  I don't have a photo of me wearing my Christmas outfit for this year since we have had nothing but fog and rain for the last week....and much of that week Mr. Lucky and I spent sniffling and coughing with a nasty winter cold.  Here is is on my dress form....another Tabula Rasa jacket with Fabric Mart glittery fabrics and piping done with silk from a gift given by a dear friend many years ago.  

Tabula Rasa Jacket by Fit for Art Patterns

I am looking forward to feeling like myself by next week and have a great new boiled wool jacket to share.  Until then, happy wishes for a great holiday time.

Simplicity 1318, Tabula Rasa and a Tomato Recipe

After a few days of driving rains the ground is saturated and it is time to be weeding and pruning as early autumn is in the air.  After I clean up from that garden work, I have a few new things to wear at this lower humidity transitional time of year.   It is my second favorite season, when I can wear lightweight layers without sticky summer heat or freezing cold temps to limit my choices.  Here are some of the new items in my wardrobe.

Simplicity 1318

Yes, I got interested in the kimono jacket look this summer and am adding a few light and medium weight ones to my wardrobe.  

This one is made from a lightweight silk which I am fairly sure came from Jomar in Pennsylvania which must mean that it is at least ten years old.  It was easy sewing using silk since it pressed nicely which made turning the curved banded edge on the neckline a little easier.  My friend who made her first one from a polyester said that was a bear to do.

Curved faced band on the back edge

I lengthened the front band by 1" and will probably raise the back curve by about two inches on the next one.  I have a rayon one planned and I also think it would sew up nicely in a wool jersey for the winter.

Tabula Rasa jacket from Fit for Art patterns

This next kimono-like jacket is another version of the Tabula Rasa,   Tabula Rasa jacket  lengthened ten inches, using the "summer sleeve" variation which is basically shorter and a little wider below the bicep curve.  I made it up in a very light, almost sheer poly from Joann's that has also been aging for years in my stash.  It was so sheer that I had to be careful with my iron or it would want to melt.  

I like how it goes nicely with a pair of jeans and makes me look dressed but not fussy.  I narrowed the front band by one half of its original width and did a rolled edge on the hems of the sleeve and the jacket.  I'm a size 10 or 12 for most RTW.  I sew up a size small in this pattern, use the front with bust darts and the slightly flared side panel.  I like the loose fitting ("art teacher" style I heard used dismissively by a runway commentator but one I embrace) design and am wearing it with a very used original Burda 2004 twist top....which I need to remake.  That's what I love about sewing.  No mourning when things wear out, just make another one!

I have a friend coming to visit this week so it is time to file away some of those new patterns sitting on the guest room bed then look at the food supply.  I am going to make one of my favorite end of summer treats, this astonishing tomato crostata recipe.  I recommend these two sewing patterns and also trying this recipe with the last of those summer red tomatoes.  

Tomato Crostata

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE CRUST

• 125 grams all-purpose flour (about 1 cup), more for rolling out dough
• 75 grams fine cornmeal (about 1/2 cup)
• ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
• 10 tablespoons cold unsalted butter(1 stick plus 2 tablespoons), cut into small cubes
• 35 grams grated extra-sharp Cheddar (about 1/2 cup)

FOR THE FILLING

• 1 ½ pounds different-colored tomatoes, sliced 1/4-inch thick (or halved if cherry or grape tomatoes)
• 1 teaspoon kosher sea salt, plus a pinch
• 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
• 1 tablespoon honey
• ½ bunch fresh thyme sprigs, plus 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
• 65 grams extra-sharp Cheddar, grated (about 1 cup)
•  Black pepper, to taste
• 1 large egg
•  Flaky sea salt, like Maldon

• 
  

  Nutritional Information

PREPARATION

1. Make the crust: In a food processor, briefly pulse together flour, cornmeal and salt. Add butter and cheese and pulse until mixture forms chickpea-size pieces (3 to 5 one-second pulses). Add ice water 1 tablespoon at a time, up to 6 tablespoons, pulsing occasionally until mixture is just moist enough to hold together. Form dough into a ball, wrap with plastic and flatten into a disk. Refrigerate at least 2 hours.
2. Meanwhile, line a rimmed baking sheet with a double layer of paper towels. Spread out tomato slices in a single layer. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and let sit for at least 1 hour and up to 3 hours. 
3. In a skillet over medium heat, combine vinegar, honey and thyme sprigs and bring to a simmer; let simmer 2 minutes, then transfer to a bowl. Wipe out skillet, then add olive oil and garlic. Cook garlic for 2 to 3 minutes, or until garlic is golden and caramelized. Remove garlic and finely chop. Reserve garlic oil.
4. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Lightly flour a work surface and rolling pin. Gently roll out dough to a 1/4-inch thickness, dusting with flour if dough is sticking. Transfer dough to baking sheet and return to fridge for another 20 minutes.
5. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Pat tomatoes dry with paper towels. Brush tomatoes with honey mixture (reserve the thyme sprigs). Leaving a 3-inch border, distribute cheese, garlic and half the chopped thyme leaves on center of crust. Add black pepper to taste, then layer tomatoes in an overlapping pattern, maintaining the 3-inch border. Drizzle garlic oil over tomatoes, sprinkle with remaining thyme leaves and lay the reserved whole thyme sprigs on top. Gently fold crust up around tomatoes, making a 2-inch border. 
6. In a small bowl, whisk egg and 1 teaspoon water. Using a pastry brush, brush egg wash over crust and sprinkle top of crostata with flaky salt. Bake for about 35 minutes, until pastry is deeply golden brown. Serve warm or at room temperature.

New: Tabula Rasa Knit Tunics

Early in the summer I was a tester for this new knit pattern on behalf of my creative friend, Rae Cumbie, and her line of patterns, Fit for Art patterns (read Rae's blog for great tips and insights into her design process)  Back in July, when I changed sizing and went from a Medium to a Small with the darted front,  I made a comfy, stylish summer robe from the jacket pattern. Then in August she and her partner Carrie sent me the finalized version of the new knit tunic pattern.  Now, I will admit that I was very skeptical that the jacket pattern would translate well into a knit version but at that testing day my skepticism disappeared as I watched middle aged women of various shapes and sizes stitch up stylish and flattering knit topics, soooooo much better than the shapeless T shirts that so many others wear.  Once again, like the jacket, what is nice about the pattern is the choice of an undarted or darted front, a shoulder line that rests on your shoulder, not dropped, but a high square armhole that is a breeze to sew.  Since that swingy side panel is everywhere in RTW right now, I made all three of these with it.  I will try the standard straight side later when I want a closer fit knit top for layering.  Ok, enough prelude, here are my three versions:

Tabula Rasa Knit Tunic with Swing Sides

This is an ITY Fabric Mart border print knit and while I was happy, I wanted it slightly longer.

Double border fabric and how I cut out the pieces

Next up was my boho fabric version...a rayon burn-out knit and two different laces, all underlined with powder-dry, a thin, breathable knit.

This nude powder-dry is ages old....back from a Yahoo fabric buying group before we had easy on-line shopping.  I hand basted the front, back and sleeves, thinking that the burgundy lace would be floaty enough on the sides not to need underlining.  Wrong!!  I could see my fleshy mid section right through that lace.  I used an even lighter fabric, a very thin tricot and hand basted that to the side panel lace so that it would keep the lightweight drape but become opaque.  Saved....or rather I saved the public from muffin top views.

Tricot pinned to the side swing panels

No prying eyes here.

Last version is my favorite so far.  Last year Fabric Mart had rayon knits in coordinating colors and sizes of stripes.  I purchased two sets of color ways and this top is one of them.  It's a purple-y blue and black stripe.  I used the largest stripe for the body, the narrower stripe for the sleeves, the solid blue for the swing panel and made the neckline from the solid and wide cut on the bias.  

Tabula Rasa Knit Tunic and infinity scarf

A better picture with truer colors

Auditioning the proportion and placement of different fabrics

Double fabric neckline finish

I had about 10 inches left of the two stripe fabrics so I sewed them as an infinity scarf and I must say I love the cowl look....so much so that I will probably add a cowl neckline to the pattern this fall or winter.  

Last photo is me wearing my first Tabula Rasa Knit Tunic in Quebec City where we got to watch the September "super moon" rise from the 10th floor deck of the airbnb apt. we rented.  More about the trip and souvenir fabric shopping to come later.  

Sew grateful you took the time to read and/or comment today.  

Tabula Rasa Jacket into Bathrobe

I am not really a fashion follower but sometimes fashion trends creep into my consciousness and I find myself up to date without even realizing it. (This happens about as often as a full moon total eclipse.)  So I noticed that one of my June sewing projects is actually very au courant per this New York Times article on the kimono resurgence this summer Kimonos Shift from Runways to Music Festivals

Tabula Rasa Jacket from Fit for Art Patterns....as a bathrobe

Yes, I'm fashionable just because I re-visited the Tabula Rasa jacket pattern from Fit for Art Patterns recently. Fit for Art Patterns I am fortunate enough to be friends and neighbors with Rae Cumbie and she had asked several sewing friends, amateur and professionals to help test the pattern and directions for her newest version, a tunic, t-shirt and blouse based on the same design lines. The new pattern and a terrific trunk show will be debuting in a few weeks at the national American Sewing Guild meeting in St. Louis, Missouri.  I won't be there this year but I encourage anyone who is attending to check out the latest version.  Rae is an artist with fabric and also understands how we want casual, comfortable designs with a flair.  
So after the test sewing day I was inspired to head home and work on another version of the Tabula Rasa jacket, this time lengthened so that I can wear it as a summer lightweight bathrobe.  I have had yards and yards of this Asian inspired design fabric which I think is a mid-weight rayon.  My camp shirt days are gone with the '90s but I love the feel of this fabric and the designs.  I lengthened the jacket pattern 15 inches, used the flared side panel and the original sleeve shortened to 3/4 length.  With some fitting advice from Rae I raised the back neckline and added shoulder darts so I could keep the fabric on the fold for center back.  I sewed a size S with the C/D front which has two small side darts in the woven version. 

The square armhole with almost invisible small side seam darts in the jacket body

I added flat piping from some denim tencel in my resource center and a belt trim with the same tencel.  I love it.  It is heavy enough that I can sit outside on our deck early on summer mornings without feeling overly exposed to the elements.  And gosh, if I attend on of those trendy summer music festivals in the Hamptons or Berkshires I guess I could also wear it as a kimono jacket.  And Mr. Lucky likes the print tremendously so won't he be surprised to see a Kwik Sew shirt for him in the future.  
Watch this space for some more woven and then knit versions coming this summer.  That test sewing day really helped restart some of my sewing mojo.
On a more personal note, I've been putting off writing this blog post for sad (not tragic, just sad) reasons of my own.  My blog is an informal way to communicate with my family members around the country and one my most loyal readers was my dear aunt and godmother who died just a month ago at age 84.  Mags lead a wonderful life and her death was not painful nor sudden, just sad for those of us mourning.  My aunt was an inspiration to me from an early age and I have so many wonderful memories.  She was truly a feminist who had it all....just didn't have it all at the same time.  She attended college and graduate school and taught abroad before marrying and starting a family.  She and my uncle had five children and they put together the most wonderful tributes to her at the funeral service. My two remaining uncles, aunts and cousins from all the families flew in for a joyous celebration. She was a woman of faith, humility and humor.  She was an avid reader and we often compared books over the phone or on my visits.  She had an amazing memory for all the people she had ever met and was always making connections and linkages.  On a cruise about twelve years ago she met Judy Barlup and was so pleased to tell her that she had a niece who loved to sew and wanted to know if perhaps we had ever met.  Sewing, however, was a foreign language to her and my cousins recall great family get togethers which always included outsiders that she would invite so they wouldn't be alone....but didn't include homemade cookies because she was just too busy.  She had an intellectual curiosity and open mind all her life.  When I left the church that I had been raised in, she wasn't critical, just wanted to know more about the quirky new to her religion that I had chosen....and wanted to make sure that my selected religion and I were involved in charitable activities and causes.  She wasn't afraid of the computer and kept up with grandchildren that way as well as read my blog and Facebook postings.  I miss her terribly already but am happy to have had so many great times with her.  Just wanted to share some fun pictures from the past:

My aunt's eigth grade graduation along with my mother looking snazzy...in the Bronx, NY

My aunt and godmother.  I don't seem to be enjoying the moment as much as she is.

With her first car.  Mags was definitely a modern woman.

Here's hoping you have happy memories of an important person in your life.

Tabula Rasa Jacket #2 and Other TNT Projects

Hello, lovely patient readers, lurkers and the mildly curious.  Some sewing going on here but my own blog reading or writing has fallen by the wayside in the last two weeks.  No dramatic reasons, good or bad, just too many other lovely distractions.  So here I am to play catch up and share a few projects from February.

First up is this outfit from the Fit for Art Patterns Tabula Rasa Jacket.  I made a lined tweed tone on tone version back in August Tabula Rasa Jacket #1 and this is my entirely different one suitable for FL evenings.  

Stitched wrong sides together then rolled hem edged

Thanks to my enormous collection of lightweight silks, stashed from numerous JoMar and Fabric Mart Pennsylvania trips over the last 10 or 12 years, I have plans for several more of these easy to sew jackets.  This one was made to go with black pants and also this black twist top dress which is merely the Jalie twist top Jalie 2788  lengthened and sleeveless.  The fabric is a corded slinky like fabric from Fabric Mart.  Wonderful travel dress and I am sure I will wear it frequently.  
This lightweight jacket is easy to wear although without shoulder pads my low right shoulder (which seems to be sinking lower ever year) does make the right side droop.  I'm too lazy and not vain enough to make separate right and left pattern pieces for this jacket and I figure my vivacious personality and sparkling conversation will distract you, right?  Or maybe the bold fabric combinations will blind you until I leave the scene.

Simplicity 2364

TNT patterns are always fun to sew and wear in a few days.  While Mr. Lucky was up north I made two more Pamela's Patterns Magic Pencil skirts and one of these delightful Simplicity 2364 tops,2364 review my first here in my Florida wardrobe.  

Magic Pencil Skirt from Pamela's Patterns

Now that Mr. Lucky and I are back together in the same state....yes, in Florida and in the same happy state of being...I'll have my chief photographer back as well.  He's such a help around the condo that I'll have more time to sew, than you very much.  (Aside:  I bow in awe to those of you who work outside the home, raise children, care for declining family members AND who sew, take and post pics and blog about it all....) This Tabula Rasa Jacket and Simplicity top were both projects that I started at the sewing retreat in late January.  I have one more to complete, a lovely tweedy jacket, that remains unfinished.  But also only half way finished is my latest reading project, Drums of Autumn ,fourth in a series by Diana Gabaldon.  Almost nine hundred pages and worth every page.  We celebrated my birthday yesterday rather quietly (in the midst of a week of social events otherwise.)  Rode our bikes to the new Trader Joe's in the afternoon then I made a salad that we took to the beach with wine and bread and our books for sunset.  So grateful for time and health and the ability to appreciate our many blessings.  These long distance, virtual sewing friendships are among those blessings to here's a toast to all of us connecting around the world.

New Pattern Company, New Jacket,

Despite trees down all around us, our home escaped unscathed from last night's Hurricane Irene.  A little damp corner in the basement, a few power surges and short outages but we've been happy to have full power and the eventual sunshine after the storm.

Today turned out to be a "summer snow day."  The hurricane's rain and high winds happened mostly after midnight and it was merely blowing heavily when daylight broke.  With so many activities already cancelled and our full power available, it was the perfect opportunity to head to my sewing room and finish this project.

Let me introduce my new jacket, the earthquake and hurricane week version, from a new pattern company, Fit for Art Patterns.  This is their first pattern, the Tabula Rasa Jacket, available for sale in two sizes on their website.  Fit for Art Patterns

Upfront disclaimer:  I've known Rae Cumbie for about 10 years when I met her in a wearable art group.  I've always admired her eye for combining fabric and textures and she was voted Baltimore's Best Tailor some years back.  When she decided to work with her partner, Carrie Emerson, on designing a pattern for weavers, quilters and other fabric artists, she allowed me to be a tester for this pattern.  Back in February she sent me a newly drafted pattern so that I (along with others in her groups) could make a mock up and test the directions.   Now the pattern has been printed along with a 16 page booklet of design, fit and sewing instructions.  Jacket sewing weather is resuming here in MD and it was time for me to make my first version of this jacket.

I've blogged before that I generally have avoided many typical art to wear or  artistic design patterns because I find them too oversized and shapeless.  I especially dislike dropped shoulders on garments.  Since Rae knows fashion sewing, and her audience, she knows that many of her potential customers would look better with bust darts and shoulder lines.  So this pattern has an A/B bust front with one dart in the square armhole and a C/D bust front with two darts...that's the one I used.  There's a square armhole and therefore no traditional set in sleeve but the jacket is designed with a shoulder seam.

I used five different fabrics in this jacket but I kept it very tone on tone.  They are all silks or silk blends from Fabric Mart that I collected over the years.  The lining is a rayon from Fabric Mart as well.  I did a very subtle flat piping on that shoulder seam to make it stand out a bit more.

I think you can see all five fabrics here as well as the two bust darts.  I used snaps and some faux Chinese coin buttons from my collection for a closure.

I did add shoulder pads to my jacket and a small interior pocket.  I'm rather pleased with the fabric combination and overall look of the jacket but I will reduce the front width by about 1/2 inch on each side, add more shaping to the side seams and add some length for my next version.  Yes, a next version.  On their website photo gallery Rae and Carrie are positively inspiring with the many versions of this jacket.  It's unlikely I'll ever do a quilting cotton one, just not my style, but I like the shear fabric ones and also am considering a double knit one for winter as well as an ikat fabric one.   Hope you enjoy looking at their website.    It's been a fun project for me and a lovely way to spend such an intersting week.  

No earthquake pictures from Thursday but here's how things looked on our block earlier today: