Earlier in the week I cleaned out my enormous button stash. Three of the Walmart Matchbox car storage bins were filled with buttons as well as another overflowing basket....and still I had to usually go out and buy just the right button for a project. I have stopped stashing buttons and have now organized the ones I think I might use in the future and am selling the bundles of remaining buttons as a group on craigslist. I'm down to just two of those storage bins, hooray.
This Vogue pattern 8674 calls for five 1" buttons for view B. I only have four of these vintage 1 1/4" buttons but I can make it work. The mother of pearl gleam looks lovely against the dull, nubby grey wool. I don't like collars too close to my neck (I seldom ever wear a turtleneck) so the four buttons will work just fine for the body of the jacket. But they are big, bigger than I like to use with a standard machine made buttonhole. Maybe four bound buttonholes.... and I seriously considered doing that....for a while at least. But this fabric is thick and I'm not that good at bound buttonholes yet and I wanted to get this project done and....and.... and. You get the picture, I didn't want to make those bound buttonholes. Snaps, yes, that's always a good answer especially since they are on RTW everywhere. I have two sets of beautiful large decorative snaps from M&J Trim in NYC....but only purchased three and I really want the four closures.
Then you wonderful bloggers came to my rescue. Carolyn's post Diary of a Sewing Fanatic referenced Barbara's post Cat Fur Studio post about the CJ jacket. I had already read it and liked the double collar but this time the "in seam buttonholes" just jumped off the page.
Now I had to re-engineer the front and lining patterns. It took me a day to figure out how to
a) widen the front for the larger button
b) eliminate the "lined to the edge" front seam and make a turned back self-facing
|Seam added and 1" opening marked for buttons. Red marker means "Add SA when cutting pieces from fashion fabric"|
c) mark the pattern for the in seam buttonholes
d) adjust the lining with the accompanying in seam buttonholes on the back.
|Seam sewn with thin fabric selvedge for stabilizing the seam....repeat four times|
|front edge of jacket with buttonhole|
|from the jacket back, buttonhole|
|two seam allowances anchored together for stability|
But what did I do incorrectly? After figuring out all of these new details, I ended up reversing the button and buttonholes sides to the jacket. Hmmmmm.... Those four buttons are looking good but they will feel a little awkward each time I button them. Luckily, no major issue for me....but easy to see why I'm not a fashion designer.
Next pics, the finished jacket.