So after a lot of reading and screen time I finally am working on my coat. This pattern came out when there was not the avalanche of "indie patterns" now available in the sewing world. IMNHO, back then there had to be something extra special to get you to shell out the extra money from an indie pattern designer. Louise Cutting, for examples, has exquisite sewing details in each and every pattern, so explicit that I swear that non-sewing Mr. Lucky could be successful with one of her projects. In earlier generations of indie patterns, either the designs were tremendously unique and/or the directions were sewing lessons in themselves. That doesn't seem to be the trend in the indie patterns of today, more's the shame really. But enough of me bemoaning, here's what I mean about unexpected details.
The Olympia Coat pattern Olympia Coat was released by Fred Bloebaum ten years ago. For a very simple coat there are actually a very large number of pattern pieces provided, eighteen altogether. First, Fred designed a lined coat and includes the separate lining and front facing pieces for both coat options.
Yes, it is not hard to draft your own lining, once you know how, but look, these lining pieces are quite different because of the all-in-one sleeves and are designed to work with this pattern specifically. Now that's useful.
|Olympia Coat Pattern Pieces|
Wow, a lot of thought and time to create a pattern that clearly wants you to have a successful outcome and also perhaps learn some sewing tips along the way. Yes, I am a Fred Bloebaum fan and when she died so young I was truly devastated. She was a calm, careful teacher and a clever, creative patternmaker. She's the standard I use to judge indie designers.
Ok, off my small soapbox. This week I've adjusted the pattern according to the fitting advice from Sarah Veblen. Number one alteration was to add a side dart for a little more length over my bust area without any additional width needed. Sarah pinned the dart onto my mockup then said just transfer it as a side dart and add the side seam take up ( 1 1/2 inches total) to the front hem.
|New collar line and side dart to mark on pattern pieces|
Next I selected some truly fun buttons from my recently organized button stash. I do not remember where these came from but I like their sort of vintage look. They are 1/4 inch larger than the buttons suggested for the pattern so I will extend the front edge that same amount to account for their size. I will use jumbo snaps under these buttons since the buttonholes seem just too large to look neat over time.
I did some snoop shopping at Nordstroms over the holidays and found two coats that I loved. They both have this stand up collar and one had an inseam buttonhole for that top collar button. I'll show you that easy way to make a button opening when I actually get to the sewing process.
Now I am deciding on what interfacing or underlining to use with this fabric. My easiest and most tried and true procedure would be to simply block fuse the entire coat front with a very lightweight fusible knit interfacing. It will stabilize the fabric just slightly while not really altering the lightweight hand of this medium weight herringbone wool.
Last decision before I start cutting out and marking is what lining fabric to use. I have plenty of my favorite lining, bemberg rayon for its slippery hand and breathability. I also have these two silk charmeuses, one heavier red one and the lighter weight burgundy.
I don't have to decide on the lining right away so I will mull it over as the coat starts to take shape later this week. I have a weekend home alone and am looking forward to putting in some quality sewing time on this project. Wish me luck and I would love to know your opinion about that interfacing/underlining question. Hope your sewing projects are keeping you engrossed in good things.