Holiday Wishes and Holiday Sewing

It's still the holiday season at our house so I like to think that this post isn't later than planned but is just part of the festivities in and out of my sewing room.  

Mr. Lucky and I have had an interesting last two months because of something that didn't happen, not something that did.  After many visits and long discussions, we made an offer on a house in late October.  I won't bore you with real estate blow by blow (this is a sewing blog after all) but after two weeks the sale did not go through...although we were already acting like it would, thinking about furniture, making dump trips from our back shed, tackling fabric stuff in the attic, and deciding what would go with us and what would go elsewhere.  We are fortunate that right now in our lives we could buy a "next house" and then put ours up for sale so at least we weren't caught in a no home dilemma when the seller reneged on the contract.  Long intro to say that I did do some holiday sewing but it fell into the quick and mostly easy fashion version.  Thank goodness for tried and true patterns that I know will work.  It wasn't very exciting but it did mean I had several new outfits for the round of festivities in the last six weeks.

TNT number 1 must be these Jalie #3461 Elenore Pull on Jeans. Jalie Elenore Jeans I streamline them even more by eliminating the faux front pockets and zipper since I haven't tucked a top into my jeans since the 80's.  These are two versions from Fabric Mart stretch poly charmeuse. They aren't warm but I loved the colors and a mild so far two months meant they served their purpose and can now retire.  Hmmm, maybe I'll just pack them away with the autumn and Christmas decorations.

Jalie Elenore Pull on Jeans

Jalie Elenore Pull On jeans

Another quick and easy pattern is Pamela's Patterns Magic Pencil Skirt. Pencil Skirt When we were six month snowbirds in Florida six plus years back I made these by the dozen.  This version is Fabric Mart stretch lace with sequins where I used the finished edge for my hem. 

 I think the magic happened that night when I wore it dancing for several hours which was fabulous after that terrible Grade 3 sprained ankle in late summer and physical therapy all fall.  And the other magic was getting an unsolicited compliment which you know sewists love to hear.

We usually dance to this marvelous Maryland band, Mood Swings, in outdoor venues on concrete but the Dec. Holly Ball has become a new tradition and the dance floor is a dream.    

Mood Swings sets the holiday mood

I have several tank patterns that are my go to answer for adding a new color or in this case texture to an outfit.  This is a Vogue 8699 shoulder princess seam tank that I made in a stretchy I think nylon/poly textured piece from Fabric Mart with a thin black knit lining.  I used the selvedge as piping along the neckline and I'm happy with how it took the Banded Front Cardigan Banded Front Cardigan also from Pamela's Patterns from nice to nicer.  

Vogue 8699,  Princess shoulder seams front and and back

Selvedge as front binding

Hmmm, animal print with animal print but my demure version

The last project for winter parties was inspired by a treasured piece of fabric.  As part of that anticipated house move I started tackling the enormous amount of fabric I have in my resource center.  I've spent many hours since that failed sale back in the resource center labeling and organizing the fabrics that I love and want to use and sending the other pieces on to their next homes.  More about that in an upcoming post or two.  
I reached deep into a closet for this paisley silk rayon velvet from Fabric Mart which must be at least ten years old and is part of a collection of silk velvets that I have been avoiding.  I've always heard how hard it is to sew, how much basting is needed, how maybe I should use spray adhesive.  I watched videos from Linda Lee and Kenneth King  on Bluprint (formerly Craftsy.)  I read a fabulous tutorial on the Emmaonesock site by the oh so talented Kathryn Brenne  Silk velvet Tutorial by Kathryn Brenne  I read and fretted and worried and finally sat down with a scrap of fabric.  I attached the HP plate (straight stitch plate) to my Janome 9400, new to me last Christmas, and then the narrow HP2 foot which is basically a narrow straight stitch walking foot.  When I started the sew I was shocked.  My machine treated that silk rayon velvet just like any other woven fabric.  Minimal slippage or bunching.  Hooray, this jacket project was going to be  a lot easier than I had ever anticipated.

I wanted a loose, flowing type of jacket for casual holiday parties.  I had worn a Fit for Art jacket recently and got several compliments so decided to duplicate the swing panel version with this fabric.  Tabula Rasa Swing Variations by Fit for Art  
Ok, sewing machine ready.  Pattern tested and ready.  Big velvet decision:  which way to place the nap?  Most of the time the nap on velvet is placed so that when wearing it you brush downward for a smooth feel.  But when I draped the fabric over my dress form, I liked the side where the nap headed up because the colors were deeper and richer.
In this photo I selected the right side, not the left.  The left was brighter and more detailed but I wanted this jacket for night time wear so went with the right side.  You might decide differently and isn't that the fun part of sewing your own clothes!

For the lining I used washed silk charmeuse from Fabric Mart.  I loved Kathryn Brenne's silk jacket which she underlined in silk organza and then lined but I was doing this too last minute to even consider that option.  

I did lose some of the burn out effect by using the lining on this particular fabric but this time of year I am always cold so I did enjoy that charmeuse lining the evening of the party.  It also made it slide nicely over my bottom layer.  Some of those other burn outs in my resource center will be just single layers worn over a tank top. 
For my final decision I did turn the jacket band with the more contrasting velvet design.  And wow, silk velvet around your neck feels wonderful.
Final evaluation:  I liked it, it was cozy and fun but I'm still looking for something kimono like with flow but not baggy and shapeless.  

Off to eat, drink and enjoy another holiday gathering.  

Here's hoping that your holidays have been merry and bright.  Next post I'll let you peer into that "resource center." 

Summer Sewing

"All in all, it was a never to be forgotten summer — one of those summers which come seldom into any life, but leave a rich heritage of beautiful memories in their going — one of those summers which, in a fortunate combination of delightful weather, delightful friends and delightful doing, come as near to perfection as anything can come in this world."

—Lucy Maud Montgomery, Anne's House of Dreams

Oh, that Anne of Green Gable, her and that cheerful optimism and love for life.  I have just started watching the new Netflix version of those beloved books while working in my sewing space.  The new series is most likely more psychologically true to the real experiences of a young orphan although I still prefer my memories of reading the books and the mid-'80s TV series.  But any version of these novels is an antidote when the pain, hurt and anger in the world seem overwhelming.  I get to escape to my sewing room, to my books and to happy memories of the summer season almost ending now.  

Two months ago I promised a mini-travelogue on our bike and barge trip but haven't sat down for enough time at the computer to sort pictures and write it up (for my memory more than anything you might find interesting.) However, since I did complete some sewing projects this summer I do want to get them posted, once again primarily for my own record.  Most of these are repeats of some of my TNT patterns so I will post them altogether and call this summer season sewing officially closed.  Labor Day was yesterday here in the US and that holiday means back to school, back to work and now back to more structured and ambitious sewing projects...and maybe even back to more frequent blogging.  So here are the summer projects that kept me busy and happy in my sewing space:

McCalls 7357 tunic

This McCalls 7357 is one of my very favorite "new patterns...meaning yes, it is still available in the catalog.  This one is a lightweight poly with burnout flowers, Fabric Mart, of course and I was particularly flattered when a sewing friend thought it was RTW when I brought it to our sewing meeting last week.  I brought it because I am raving about the potential of this pattern...bust cup sizes, princess seams with that small Euro dart (what the heck is the name of that small dart on a princess seam?) and a three piece sleeve.  This is my third version and I see several more in my future.  There's a lot of ease to the pattern so this is a light and airy summer tunic but I would like to change up the neckline, take out some ease and use it for a knit as well as a woven.

Tabula Rasa Knit Tunic pattern

I could make this pattern up in my sleep.  Another one of my TNT patterns, Tabula Rasa Knit Tunic from Fit for Art  Rae Cumbie is a local friend of mine and I couldn't be happier that her patterns are succeeding in the marketplace.  This one is a fun Fabric Mart rayon knit, fairly lightweight so I don't know how many seasons of wear I will get.  But I wore it to attend a summer lecture on the upcoming solar eclipse (Maryland was in the 80% + path) and someone remarked that it looked like there were moons and planets in the print.  I tried something new for me after watching Marcy Tilton's video on her blog and laid the front pattern piece on the bias.  As she noted, knits don't have grain per se and I like the freedom I get to arrange the fabric as I like.  Seems just as stable as my normal method and gave me real flexibility.  

Vogue 8691

Vogue 8691

Another rayon knit, this one a little beefier and warmer, perfect for fall days.  Vogue 8691 is a Katherine Tilton for Vogue pattern and I love the princess seams, the flounce and mini-mermaid look in the back.  I never do a pretty job attaching those flounces but the gypsy boho fashion thing means not even my sewing friends examine that part up close.

Kwik Sew 3740

OMG, this TNT pattern is ancient in sewing fashion terms.  Kwik Sew 3740 was the buzz at least ten+ years ago for the unique way to managed a cowl neckline without the fear of exposure when you bent down the retrieve something.  I waited a year or two or three before I made one and still wear that one happily to this day.  I loved the summery watery colors in this fabric and it's a lighter than usual rayon blend that feels like slinky...cool and drape-y.  Seems like it was worth holding on to this pattern just to have a new summer top with truly a "quick sew."

Burda 6809

Staying in the same color wave, Burda 6809 has stolen my heart.  This is my second one done in a poly burnout but this time with the collar added, not just with the collar band.  Cute little neckline detail, a little different from so many tunics out there and a two piece sleeve make this one a real winner for me.  I think a linen dress version would be perfect for hot muggy days and once again, maybe even a knit version.

Vogue 8997

Now, in my mind and my mirror I'm as beautiful as the young woman in the catalog wearing Vogue 8997.  That's how much a twirly girly dress can affect your senses.  I made this pattern last summer in a bright pink and cherry red print and this summer I took ten inches out of the skirt circumference and did the water color wave version.  What an absolutely fun dress for dancing in and I highly recommend this very versatile pattern.  There's a two piece sleeve that I have to try and a sheath version and with bust cup sizing this could turn from fun and silly to great mother of the bride outfit.

Stitch and flip jacket

Last one in my turquoise summer love is another stitch and flip jacket.  This is my TNT princess seam jacket and I have raved before about my love for this technique taught on Patternreview by the late gifted and kind Shannon Gifford.  I had actually demonstrated this technique at my sewing meeting early last fall.  It's so easy to do, I exclaimed, as I stitched together the jacket back along with its lining in about thirty minutes....and then left the unfinished project in my sewing room for months!!!  In one of my mad, use or lose it cleaning frenzies I decided to actually finish it.  The trim is just more of the raw silk cut on the bias and zig zagged on the edges and I added pieces of a blue plastic zipper from the old PA Fabric Outlet (boy do I miss that place for its notions.)  I added the pocket trim by hand to curve the bias so you can see those stitches inside, if you are looking.  I add small shoulder pads as well which means that I have to hand sew the lining of the sleeve to the body of the jacket so there is a little hand work but not as much by far as doing the traditional "French jacket" version.  The jacket feels like wearing a sweatshirt and packs wonderfully and the colors make me so happy.

Jalie 3461 Elenore Jeans

Yes, summer is winding down so I squeezed in another pair of Jalie Elenore Pull on Jeans in a black and white Fabric Mart stretch woven transitional print.  I love this RTW lace top from Stein Mart and am always on the lookout for tiny print stretch woven to sew up for pants.  
Wow, that was an interesting retrospective for me.  I have so many other things going on that I feel as though I don't get enough sewing done but it's nice to see that I actually did accomplish some projects and have enjoyed wearing them.  No new big discoveries, just terrific TNT patterns that fit my life.  Here's hoping you have sewing goals and projects that do the same for you.