Good Chanel, Bad Chanel

I took a great online class for Stitch and Flip jacket techniques from the late, great, wonderful Shannon Gifford who taught for years through Patternreview.com.  Because of her clever techniques for sewing linings and fashion fabrics together, I was able to create comfortable, almost sweater like jackets with her technique.  Here's the progression of successful ones (I use my basic Simplicity #4256 and just modify it for each version.)

First stitch and flip done with piping and facings

Silk tweed also done with facings and piping

First "real, faux-Chanel" with no facings and fully "quilted"

In autumn of 2009 I joined my first sew along blog, Go Chanel or Go Home and loved seeing others make various versions of the iconic Chanel jacket.  I love this one the most.  I think the colors are good for me, it's comfortable and can be casual or dressy depending on accessories.

Go Chanel or Go Home blog sew along version

So what happened next?
I was feeling confident and excited to work on my next version last spring, while here in Florida.  Ok, maybe more than confident, perhaps a little cocky and full of myself:-)  Result ....Mon Dieu, bad Chanel jacket.

Yikes, Coco would not be happy with me.

I decided that I know so much more now, I'll improve upon the method that Shannon taught and do this one a little bit more my way.  Ha!!  Joke's on me.
Rather than block fuse the fabric with lightweight knit interfacing, which I had done for every other jacket above, I decided to use silk organza as the underlining.  Yes, I hand basted the silk organza to each of the eight pattern pieces, but only in the seam allowances and I think that was my big mistake.  The trick to the stitch and flip technique (also described in issue 111 of Threads magazine) is creating a sandwich of fashion fabrics right sides together then lining pieces right sides together, stitch the center back seam, press open, trim the seam to 1/4" then top stitch.  By adding that layer of silk organza, just as fiddly and wonky as Ambiance lining fabric, I gave the now six layers more opportunity to get ever so slightly off grain.  I made my way around the jacket to the front, then hand basted the bias strips of fabric on the outside and tried on the jacket....ugh....see that wonky pulling in the back?  I was heartily PO'd last spring when I saw it.  Put it on hanger in the sewing room thinking I would get back to it and never did.
The nice part about leaving for 5 months is that when I came back this year I had some emotional distance from this project.  First of all the fabric is not flattering on me.  Lovely silk tweed but in a bright mix of colors that don't complement how fair I am.  As of today, I've taken the trim off, done some trimming and pressing and will give it one more try before totally abandoning it.  

Plenty of sewing lessons here.

• Pick fabrics that flatter you or you may not enjoy wearing that project you spent so much time sewing.
• Follow the directions until you understand fully what deviations will provide new challenges.  I believe that I could have prevented this from happening if I had hand basted that organza along several parallel grain lines....and with that much hand basting would have decided to block fuse after all.
• Put that annoying or disappointing project away until you can analyze what didn't work and turn it into a sewing lesson.  For the more mature among you, that may be a short time....takes me longer to get over my frustration.
• Don't give up.  Sewing has many great results....garments that fit and flatter and wonderful friendships along the way.

 Ok, requisite dog pictures and update.  Lucky is showing his true terrier side, some stubbornness and willfulness starting to display.  He's quite good at responding to correction....but I'll admit it's wearing me out a little just monitoring him.  Definitely like being proud of your baby walking.....and realizing, whoops, be careful what you wish for:-)  DH and I are the ones who have to agree on what's acceptable and what's not and how to be consistent.  We made some mistakes early on with Sam the basenji and I  don't want to repeat those again. Good news is that the two boys walk wonderfully on leashes together now and started playing together which is wonderful exercise for both.  I'm channeling my inner pack leader (yes, I adore the Dog Whisperer and his advice is in my head all of Lucky's waking hours.)  Tomorrow's the big groomer and vet day so he'll be sore and quiet for a while but I bet he'll be back to his perky self soon.

Easy Sewing Therapy: Placemats

I'm needing some very simple sewing projects while we foster little Lucky for these first few days.  These are placemats that I made with more of the donated decorator fabric brought to sewing guild meeting each month.  I wouldn't normally post about this simple a project but the shape is what made me happy.  I was looking for a Big 4 pattern to fit the round table of a friend this last month and could not find this angled design in any of the catalogs.  Then a sewing friend shared this design and I love it.  Worked perfectly for the blue and green placemats that I made in December and now we havesix of these on our oval lanai table.
Pattern dimensions are 20" at the bottom width, length 13 1/2" and width at the top is 11" with 1/4" seam allowance.

Pattern shape

Afternoon of day 2

Here's the slight truce we're at so far between Sam the basenji and Lucky.  I would call it "we've agreed to disagree" tone.  Lucky is definitely getting bolder (not a great thing and why he needs to get neutered and we get trained in managing a terrier) and more playful, definitely a good thing and very fun for us since Sam has never been that kind of dog.  Thanks for all your good wishes.  Our routine is getting re-established with getting a second dog sooner than we had ever considered but we're all learning.

Lucky Dog!

Another Lucky dog

We've always said that our dog, Sam, is the luckiest dog on planet Earth.  It was next to impossible for us to find a place to rent in the winter here in Florida and so eight years ago we bought a condo...because of the dog!!    Sam loves his life here, as we do, and all three of us socialize each morning at the dogpark.  So this morning we walked into the dogpark and were greeted by this adorable face at the gate.  Just figured, oh, someone new today.  One of our friends, an early arrival, was calling him "Lucky."  We heard the story that he was obviously dumped at the park (not uncommon, unfortunately) when they came this morning.  So among the 8 humans there we started discussing what to do.  He's remarkably quiet, no yipping, has a collar, but is not neutered and slightly skittish but submissive and fine with all the other dogs.  Hmmmm, you can see where this is going, can't you?  I was hoping that after our "bucket list" trip in two months to start lobbying for a second dog.  I really wanted a female since Sam's an alpha male.  But then "Lucky" showed up.  We brought him home this morning, fed him and now are arranging for him to get groomed, a vet inspection (maybe he is chipped) and neutered.  We'll foster him this week and see how the two of them get along.  Sam's not thrilled at the moment but no aggression from Sam and Lucky is perfectly happy and submissive to all concerned.  Let's see, it was a jacket a month, not a dog a month, right?

Finished: Silk Flower Embellished Sweater and Button/Bias Embellished Skirt

Just saw the most delightful play, "Sylvia" by A.R. Gurney, the author of "Love Letters" and The Cocktail Hour" among others.  All of you dog lovers in the sewing world would find it  a humorous and entertaining show.  Don't tell, but Mr. Lucky was wiping his eyes at the end.   Me, of course I had tears, but I cry at Hallmark commercials...

This morning I was sewing my flowers onto the sweater as well as the bias and buttons onto the skirt just in time to attend the matinee today.  So maybe it's the last minute adrenaline rush but I love how the silk flowers turned out.  They have a slightly burned edge and the silk is lustrous.  These were sale silk dupionis in four shades of blue, from Joanns home dec sale area and I think one from Fabric Mart.  Never quite knew what to do with them but I think I've found the answer....combine them into these multi-dimensional flowers.
I think the sweater will look great with casual jeans as well as this skirt.

The skirt is a repeat of Burda 8294 a simple bias skirt that I fitted this fall.  Thanks to those of you who commented on my design decision post.  I ended up siding with Christiana and Shannon so thank you, ladies.  I appreciate everyone who reads this little blog and especially those of you who take the time to share your remarks.  I know how many blogs I love to read and it isn't easy to comment each time.  Thank you!!!

The finished skirt hem area has a narrow 3/4" bias strip handsewn onto the skirt with crystal marcasite buttons added to give sheen and glimmer along the edge.  Mr. Lucky really liked the skirt and my wonderful sewing friend who was at the theater with us liked the flowers.  Me, I'm thrilled it's done and so very happy with the outcome.  No new pattern here but a fun new outfit and wonderful separates for my closet.

Close up of the buttons, the bias strip and the silk herringbone plaid fabric

Slight burnt edge around each petal shape

Making Silk Flowers and Caldo Verde

Gathered five petal blossoms and a few more to finish

Acquaintance who knows I sew:  "What are you working on these days?"
Me:  "I'm burning the edges of 90 six-sided silk petals shapes before gathering them into blossoms to decorate a sweater."
Acquaintance. "Oh."

And I'm listening to DVDs of Carl Hiaasen's book,  Nature Girl.  Pretty clever, funny story of characters here in SW Florida.  I've never read any of his humorous novels before and I can understand why people enjoy him.  I'm not sure I'll run out to get another of his soon but it's light reading while I've been doing this embellishing task.

Here's my inspiration:
Threads link to Kenneth King flower instructions and video clip
Here are my steps:

Traced my flower shape onto different colors of silk dupioni

Carefully burn the edges of the flower petals

Wipe the soot off the edges before stacking them in desired color sequence

I am still gathering these flowers to attach to my next Ann Taylor sweater.  I'll be wearing it and my tweed skirt tomorrow to the theater in Fort Myers so will make sure that I get a snapshopt of the outfit for your inspection.  In the meantime, I thought I'd share a wonderful new recipe that we tried last week when it was cold.  Yummmm....and rather healthy as well.

Caldo Verde
From The Best Recipe Soups and Stews, by the editors of Cook’s Illustrated Magazine
Serves 6

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling over individual bowls
1 large onion, chopped medium
4 medium cloves garlic, minced
6 c. chicken broth
1 lb. (about 4 medium) red potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
8 oz. chorizo or smoked kielbasa sausage halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces
1 spring fresh savory or oregano (1 used 1 tsp. dried)
6 oz. kale, stems removed and laves cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips (about 4 1/2 packed cups)
ground black pepper

1. Heat the oil in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering.  Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 5 minutes.  Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
2. Add 3 cups stock, the potatoes, and 1/2 tsp. salt.  Increase the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.  Remove the pot from the heat and mash the potatoes in the liquid with a potato masher until no large chunks remain and the potatoes thicken the soup slightly.
3. Return the pot to medium-high heat.  Add the remaining 3 cups stock, sausage, and savory and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer to blend the flavors, about 15 minutes.
4. Remove and discard the savory.  Stir in the kale and simmer until just tender, about 5 minutes.  Adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper to taste.  Serve immediately, drizzling each portion with olive oil, if desired.
Caldo Verde pics and directions