I have been enjoying the inspiration and useful tips on Gigi's blog Behind the Seams jackets of 2010 posting for years so it's my pleasure to complete a year long project that was inspired by her...and the other marvelous seamstresses on Stitcher's Guild who also took up the challenge. Now my dilemma is that I know next to nothing about photo editing on my MAC so I can't present these in a cool collage. But here are my 12+ jackets and my thoughts about this project:
Simplicity 3884
Jacket #2 was a sample jacket that I couldn't show since I was testing the Tabula Rasa jacket that was going into production later this year. But I put it in my count since not only did I have to sew a complete jacket, but I also wrote up notes about the instructions. My second one shows up later on this page.
Vogue 8136
Stitch and flip Simplicity 3884
More Simplicity 3884
Simplicity 2603
Pamela's Patterns Draped cardigan
Tabula Rasa Jacket
Draped Front Cardigan
Draped Front Cardigan
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| Draped Front Cardigan |
Vogue 8674
Simplicity 2313
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| Vogue 8483 |
I found this project to be a challenge in the full sense of the word. Even though I'm rather well acquainted with my body and common alterations for it, I still make a muslin for every new pattern. It's a process that I appreciate but also find so exasperating. Lots of muslins for these jackets meant tedious marking and pattern alterations which turned out to be good discipline for me to practice. And now I have a few more TNT patterns in my repertoire for which I am very grateful. So my dislike of muslins and especilly of pattern alterations is diminishing...although I would still love to pay someone to do this part for me:-)
Favorites of the year: Magic Pencil skirt
Simplicity 2364 knit top
Simplicity 2313 jacket
Today marks my first full calendar year of blogging and I've had some random thoughts while looking over my web album for this post.
1. Blogging makes me conscious of keeping a record and that's good. When I think I'm a lazy slug while the world is full of creative seamstresses churning out designer gowns each week, my little blog reminds me of my own sewing progress. It's why every health regimen recommends some form of a food diary as a way to recognize your successes and analyze what gives you hang ups.
2. What a pain it is to remember to take pics and get them posted....but a picture is worth a thousand of my meager words. I'm inspired now to learn a little about simple photo labeling and editing now that I truly see the value of good pictures.
3. I love being part of this global family of sewing bloggers many of whom would never open one of my posts but who keep me smiling and enjoying creativity even when I don't feel like sewing. I don't write as many comments as I would like (and I'm sure someday I'll just open a blog and be able to dictate my awe and appreciation to the writer) but I enjoy knowing that there's a thread of connection among all of us.
The rest of the tally for 2011:
20 skirts
2 window coverings
6 placemats
2 nightgowns
2 embellished sweaters
12 knit tops
1 man's shirt
10 dresses
2 aprons
5 scarves
random gifts and charity sewing projects
Now it's time to finish packing for a picnic at the beach and last sunset of 2011 followed by fireworks. Of course, living in a retirement area in Florida means that the fireworks are at 7:30 pm and even staying and chatting on the beach with our friends still means we'll be home by 10:-) It's a wonderful way to end the year. Hope that your new year's is a delightful one as well and that 2012 is full of creativity and inspiring sewing projects.
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| Vogue 8483 |
Pattern Description Unlined, above hip or above knee length jacket has front extending to collar, princess seams, raglan sleeves in two lengths and asymmetrical closing with buttons and purchased cord for loops, stitched hems and topstitch trim.
Pattern Sizing 8-24 Terrific size range.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? My version is a combination of the short jacket sketch with the long sleeves of the photo.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Relatively easy directions although the collar edge sewn tot he sleeve and back might present a challenge to new sewers. Don't worry, those messy inside edges will be hidden by the facing.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love these open collars that can be worn up or folded down. I like the slightly asymmetrical design although I didn't button my jacket up so high so the asymmetry is not as obvious.
Fabric Used A very lightweight silk tweed from Fabric Mart that wrinkled when I looked at it....but did press very nicely for sharp edges. I underlined it with a very soft silk organza and that slightly improved the hand. I used medium weight fusible interfacing for the facings and collar which saved the jacket structure and added an ambiance lining. Next time I will select fabric with slightly more body and firmness. I like the structured version of the green jacket sketch more than the drapey color photo which looks a little messy and worn to me.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did a muslin and made several major changes to make this look better on my body. I raised the back neck1 1/2 inches total and added back darts to keep the center back on the fold. I did a FBA but also folded out 1/2 in the front panel. I cut a size 12 at the neck, shoulders and underarm and then worked out to about a size 16 by my high hip. I'm quite narrow on the front of my body but have a quick tummy and high hip to account for circumference. I added 1 inch length to the jacket and sleeve hems.
I used oversized snaps for closures with a hand embroidery starburst design on the front where the closures are. I also tacked the neckline and lining facings together at the very back to maintain their stability together.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I'll be making at least one or more versions of this jacket. I like the idea of a short sleeve summer unlined version to throw over a sleeveless dress or top. I'd also like to do a fringed version but would make sure to pre fuse all my fabric beforehand to give it some weight.
Conclusion: Once again, an OOP pattern that is new to me. Seems to be my sewing pace....let the patterns and fabric age nicely until they are eventually destined to meet.
Two more styling versions:
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Back collar folded down
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I'm writing this post in spurts in between pressing open my latest jacket facings....and letting the section dry out on my pressing tool before moving on to the next section. I'm an impatient person so this part gets me distracted and scattered. Perhaps writing about the project will keep me more focused.
Jacket #14. Wow, that surprised even me. Now, remember that the "jacket" in 2011's project is any third layer. Some of mine are multiples and lightweight, not heavily tailored jackets at all.
Tomorrow I'll post my pics of the year in jackets but here's the one under way today.
I'm sewing up another new to me pattern, Vogue 8483 (now OOP, no surprise since I'm always late in the fashion game.)
The fabric is a very lightweight silk tweed which feels almost like linen. Fabric Mart, of course.
It looks more substantial than it is so I underlined the entire jacket with silk organza. I used silk organza from my collection but even it is quite lightweight and did very little to change the hand of the fabric.
I was hoping to give it some more "oomph" but it seems to merely have done some stabilizing. There's mid weight fusible interfacing on the facings and collar and also ambiance lining so it's working out in the end. I do believe that this large collar would benefit from a slightly firmer fashion fabric next time.
Sewing in spurts is usually a good tactic for me but this time it slightly back fired. I made a muslin and pattern adjustments back in late October (thank you again, Michele, for your advice and help in selecting this pattern to add to my repertoire) then cut it out and did the silk underlining right before we left to come down to Florida. Wonderful, that means some the tedious work is already done! Whoops, I forgot to pack the leftover fabric (trust me there's plenty of it up north) Why would that matter? Well, as I got close to finishing the jacket this week I wanted to try out some buttons and buttonholes....but have no scrap fabric to use. Nor do I have any scrap fabric to make the suggested loops. So what to do about a closure? Aha, another sewing friend's idea to the rescue. At one of our neighborhood ASG group meetings one of our friend's presented a RTW idea she had seen. Snaps are definitely "in" right now but sometimes a snapped up garment looks a little strange without an exterior closure. Instead of a button, one designer (sorry my memeory can't say which one although it might have been Akris, one of my favorites) did a subtle embroidery in the closure area.
I pulled out my embroidery floss collection (why do I still have embroidery floss when I haven't done counted cross stitch in several decades?) and mixed together three colors
then stitched a small sunburst design where the snaps will be sewn.
Pressing is almost done so now it's time to settle down with handsewing and a TV show tonight. We're re-watching Downton Abbey in preparation for season 2 starting in about 10 days.
Hooray, last jacket of 2011 almost done!
To those of you who celebrate Christmas, I hope yours is full of joy, peace and happiness. And to my other readers, I hope December 25 is a day to enjoy with friends and family.
My family had wonderful holiday celebrations together. This is one from more than 50 years ago. You can't see the color but I'm wearing a green taffeta dress with black velvet trim and some delicate lace. Isn't it remarkable the textile memory that sewists have? I loved that dress and it's a shame that I grew so quickly as a youngster and had to keep my mother busy making me new Sunday clothes all the time.
I'm pretty sure that I am ecstatic to be opening my Barbie doll in this picture, something I doubted I would be getting but that great Santa came through again.
My parents are both gone now and this Christmas would have been my dad's 90th birthday. Fortunately I have happy, silly and sweet memories as well as loving friends and family with whom to celebrate this year. Here's hoping that you have something in your life to make your heart sing, today and every day of the new year.
Mr. Lucky and I are a little slow getting the Christmas decorations up this year but I did arrange this collection in my sewing room a few days ago. Check out the cute stitching wintertime theme. I purchased these figurines at JoAnn's more than a few years ago and I find it so disheartening that they seldom have any sewing themed ornaments among the other junk cheap c--p merchandise they sell. Oh well, I'm just glad they still have their terrific pattern sales and carry Burda patterns.
But a JoAnn's rant is not the purpose of my post today. I've been doing a little catching up on sewing closet projects. I've made my favorite jeans jacket pattern, Kwik Sew 2895 about a dozen times in recent years. I don't use the chest pocket flap as shown on the pattern picture. First of all it's not easy to get that flap to stay flat and secondly it's next to impossible to get it to lie flat on a curved surface. Instead I often use simple or decorated patch pockets. On Wednesday I pulled out one of my favorite patch pocket designs which is in the Louise Cutting By Popular Demand pattern. By Popular Demand I enjoy this pattern for its great collar technique, wonderful sleeve and back yoke seam matching and cute pleated patch pockets (which come scaled according to the pattern size you use.) But the jacket itself was just too boxy for me. So I have modified my Kwik Sew pattern with all of these elements but forgot until yesterday to copy the pocket. Louise's pattern instructions are so wonderfully detailed and practical that I swear Mr. Lucky could sew a beautifully finished garment...if he could figure out how to thread my machine. I won't steal Louise's thunder but just give you some hints as to her step by step instructions to get this nicely rounded cornered patch pocket onto my jacket.
a stretch brown denim Magic Pencil skirt with a mini cargo pocket...perfect for some cash or a cellphone.
Switching gears, the last book I've read is by Ivan Doig who writes about his native Montana and the West in large, historical novels. This one was a bit slow to read since he's an old-fashioned writer with elaborate prose and an emphasis on character development and historical research. But I enjoy his books for their focus on the homesteading of the West and the peoples who came as immigrants to that land. This one is the last of a trilogy started with the beautiful book, Dancing at the Rascal Fair. Now it's 1924 and while much of the action takes place in Montana there are sections involving the Harlem Renaissance, WWI, the Buffalo Soldiers and Prohibition. My biggest mistake was reading this late at night before bedtime. Doig's prose deserve careful reading and I'm not sure my nocturnal habits give it its due.
Off to do some cooking for the entertaining we have planned in the next few days. Hope that you have some enjoyable activities to look forward to in your life as well.
