Friday, September 30, 2011

Vogue 8674 Done and Jalie 2919 Giveaway Still Open

Vogue 8674
Yesterday was finally sunny enough to get some pictures....and cool enough to want to wear this jacket/capelet.  Vogue 8674 is an easy pattern with bust cup sizing and the potential to work nicely in a variety of fabrics.  My version is from a wool/nylon nubby weave with a thin wool gauze like back layer.  The vest portion is lined with Bermberg rayon lining.  The two layers of wool make for a warmer than expected capelet.  

I made two major deviations for this project.  I had these four vintage buttons and worked out how to add them with in seam buttonholes  Blog entry with in seam buttonhole details  I love how they look and how they work, just slipping into that inseam quckly and without any buttonhole stretching.  I've known about this technique for years and finally got to use it and am happy with the results.  I also don't miss that top fifth button since the collar has plenty of overlap and also doesn't rub against my neck.
Button sliding through that gap
This edge didn't do justice to this fabric.
The second alteration to the directions was my use of real grosgrain/petersham as a facing.  The directions say to just turn the edges twice and topstitch for the capelet part of the jacket.  That would be too bulky in this double weave fabric.  But the serge and stitch down a small hem looked a little too cheap, even with mitred corners, so I came up with this solution.  
Testing the petersham as a facing
Two years ago Fabric Mart bought out a millinery supply shop and I grabbed several rolls of hat band petersham for a song.  I"ve mostly used the petersham in skirt waistbands and love the crisp and stable finish it gives.  So I pulled out the roll of grey and it was a terrific color match. 
Pinning petersahm
 Yards and yards of pinning...
I mitred corners at the cape's six corners and placed it carefully over the serged and turned edge.  Since the two fabrics had a tendency to move a little, I used a very narrow zig zag when sewing the two edges and that kept them together with a small amount of ease.  I like the designer detail it gives to a very casual garment.
Outside edge with two rows of stitching

Petersham/ real grosgrain is generally made of rayon and you can tell the real thing because the edges have very definite loops.  You can steam it into curves, whch is why it is so nice for waistbands and hat insides.  The Sewing Place sells real petersham  Don't be confused by the polyester grosgrain that you can buy at chain stores.   Look at the edges and you will see that they are smooth and unribbed.  You will not be able to shape polyester grosgrain. 
One more reminder.  I'll be selecting a winner for the Jalie 2919 pattern on Monday, Oct. 3 so please leave a comment, if you haven't done so already.  I'll be away overnight celebrating my anniversary this wekend (24 years!) and will post a notice on Monday.  Hope you have a happy weekend in your part of the world.


  1. Your cape looks marvelous and your finish with the petersham is such a good idea. Have fun celebrating your anniversary and congratulations on 24 years!

  2. Beautiful cape and happy anniversary!

  3. Love it. Thanks for the tips on the slot seaming and the use of petersham. I'm heading over to FM now to see if they have any left.

  4. Lovely jacket/cape. You did a great job. I like the buttonholes! Love the color, Grey is my favorite color for clothing!

  5. Beautiful cape and great way to handle the buttonholes!

    I already have that pattern. ;)

  6. What a wonderful cape! Love the way you finished the edges.

  7. Lovely cape. You're so in style this year.


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