Susan Khalje Needles and Pins

Oh, I wish I were a poet so I could write a love sonnet to these hand sewing needles.
I've been to Susan Khalje's wonderful trunk shows at the American Sewing Guild conferences, I read her Threads articles closely and of course, I own her books, even the "wedding gown" book although I never made my own nor do I have a daughter to sew one for in the future.  But up until last spring I had not taken a hands on class with Susan.   I signed up for the Fort Myers chapter workshop on "Couture Techniques" and loved every minute.  Couture involves great precision and a lot of hand sewing.  I seldom (if ever) will make a entire couture garment.  But the techniques are useful when adding touches of couture details to  a fashion project.

One of the greatest benefits of the workshop buying these fabulous hand sewing needles from Susan.  Susan's website store   I had already become a pin snob years ago and only use Japanese glass headed pins.  Susan sells them as well so I resupplied myself with another 2 boxes.  The hand sewing needles were  revelation to me.  Smooth as glass and also remarkably strong.  As Susan describes them , they don't arc when you are sewing through multiple layers or heavy fabric.  I keep them separate from any other hand needles and am jealously possessive of them.  They deserve a nicer, cuter "home" but for now they stay together in some felted wool jersey and I lovingly make sure they have a cozy, safe resting place each night.

Snap Out of It Bag

Last winter I learned about using retractable metal rulers to create closures for bags.  My BFF came to visit and we explored quilting stores together where the new patterns from The Stitichin' Sisters Stitichin Sisters site were selling like gangbusters.   We made a few while she was visiting and I, being the non-quilter, had to made some adjustments to make it work for me.  First of all, I want a bag to be big enough to hold a full length pen or pencil so I made it wider.  Next, I find those 1/4 seam allowances somewhat fiddly so I made the side seams 1/2".   I also like some width at the bottom so I made a small boxed bottom.  I liked different closures rather than prairie points so I used shaped tabs and fun buttons, and last I wanted it sturdier so I used interfaced fabric or home dec fabric.   I'm happy with how it turned out and now I have a hostess gift and holiday girl gift whenever I feel like taking about 40 minutes to make one.
I made this one to take to our sewing guild meeting in the spring.  One of our members works at the Robb and Stuckey designer showrooms (large, luxurious furnishings and decorator store) and she brings decorator scraps each month.  It's fun because the fabric scraps are often coordinated.  These are the three that I took off the table to make this little bag: two cottons and a plaid silk that I used for flat piping.   We have an annual "competition" to see what became of the "leftovers."
Here are visuals to show how I made mine:

An Infinite Number of Infinity Scarves

Ok, that's a slight exaggeration.  There's a finite number of infinity scarves on the internet and now I'm joining the crowd.  This is my quick version from silk chiffon I've had for years, most likely from Jomar in PA.   I made mine 68 inches long (because that's how long my cutting mat is) and 30 inches wide.  I found the full 45" too billowy, even in this silk chiffon.  So if I were very ambitious I could make another scarf with the leftover chiffon and a rolled edge....but I put it in the giveway pile just to make it leave my stash

And yes, those of you with observant eyes will notice that the green jacket in my October 4 New York City post is now blue.  A horse  jacket of a different color!  This is the same Simplicity 2858 pattern and even the same leather pieces for an accent.  I made this one first and was so very happy with it that I made an identical one in the different color scheme for the PR 2009 September jacket contest.  Lucky for me I live in two places so only you keen eyed readers will know that two of these are in my wardrobe.  This one, the original now resides in FL and the green in Baltimore.  I don't think they miss each other.

Early Christmas Presents

2 yards of lightweight sweater knit

There's no real need for me to be out and about on Black Friday....or any other notorious shopping day of the year.  Very small family remaining on either side for Mr. Lucky and me, my friends and I stopped gift exchanges except maybe for the lovely consumable or "any random time" surprise.  But those Black Friday emails got me.   Fabric Mart, 25% off!  Threads, 25% off and free shipping!   So this week the UPS man came to my house bearing packages for me....ooooh, I just had to open them right then and there.

1 1/2 yards ITY knit (almost 2 yards actually)

Now don't even ask what I'm going to make out of these.  Most likely knit tops of some sorts and a sweater set from the leopard.  I seldom have a plan inn mind, just plunge ahead into a fabric store and buy what I like.  Fabric Mart is so very generous with their cut lengths that I'll have plenty of fabric for at least a top and perhaps a dress.

Same generous 1 1/2 yard piece

My final big treat, the Claire Schaeffer DVD from the Threads sale.  $29.99, what a steal for perpetual classes on my computer.

I hope Santa brings you and everyone else treats that make your heart sing with happiness.  He's done a good job at my house already.

Vogue 1100 review and pics

   Pattern Description:  Vogue 1100

Loose-fitting, lined jacket A has two-piece collar, two-piece, three-quarter length raglan sleeves with cuffs, front princess seams, mock welts, inverted back pleat, slightly flared back hemline and single buttonhole and button closure

 Pattern Sizing:6-20

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Fairly easy to follow.   As always, I find the front facing and hem lining the most difficult to accomplish.  I made my lining a hang loose version to allow for the swing of the jacket back.  I think that’s what the Vogue directions were ending up with as well but they never spelled it out directly.  Sometimes you have to hit me with a big beam to get my attention.   Otherwise I think anyone with some sewing experience could handle this one.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I’ve had this pattern for a while.  I particularly enjoyed seeing Annette’s ,  jewelea and merrypatter’s versions since they each gave me some ideas for my own.  I immediately liked the collar on this jacket.  It’s similar to few others I’ve made:  Kwik Sew  3095 and Simplicity  2858.  Like the Simplicity jacket it has princess seams which I think are a girl’s best friend, especially on a jacket that tends to be boxy….but I tend to be boxy in my midsection also.

Fabric Used:  A linen blend that has been in my collection for years.  I bought it in Baltimore at a fabric store that used to be on Erdman Avenue (Maybe called Fabric Warehouse)  I probably bought it in the early 90’s since it has that bright color saturation from back in those days (now being revived in the 80s look of today)  It must have some rayon since it presses nicely but also has a repugnant smell when damp. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I did make a quick muslin and made the collar slightly wider at the back since I too found that it was pulling away from my neck.  I probably should have done a round back alteration but was too lazy to bother in this swing jacket back.  I did a FBA on the princess seams up front and added 1” to the total length.  I did a modified S curve on that princess seam to give the jacket slightly more shaping on the front (can’t find that great Threads article about S shaping under the bust area to bring the princess seam bottom slightly closer to the body) Initially I also added 1 ½ inches to the length of the sleeves.  My boo boo since I was judging the muslin sleeve length without the added cuffs.  I took out 1" of that length when I got around to adding the cuffs in the fashion garment.

I like the saddle stitching that merrypatter did on her jacket so I did something similar. 
I wanted a tone on tone subtle look since I planned on wearing jewelry with this jacket.  I used three threads of embroidery floss and did two rows of stitching around the cuffs, pocket flaps, upper shoulder front, back above the swing pleat and up and down the front and collar.  I actually like handsewing and like the rough texture this gives to the jacket without screaming handmade (I hope.)   I didn’t want it too precise or else I would have used a guide like Tigertape or a basting stitch.

For the hanging lining I did anchor the side seams of the lining to the jacket with thread loops

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/14669/thread-bars

The pocket flaps are simply that, non-functioning flaps and a bit large at that.  I would reduce their width aby about 1" and maybe make a real pocket...although I don't need too much extra in that location.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Simplicity 2858

Hmmmm, not sure I will sew this one again.  I actually ended up liking my Simplicity jacket more.  One reason is the under collar piece of the Simplicity jacket has what I call a modified collar stand.
The collar is therefore supported to stand up and mold around my back neck which I think makes for a more flattering collar.  I hate sewing the Simplicity jacket because it has those annoying square corners for the shawl collar and lining but I think the results are better.  This Vogue collar is much, much, much easier to sew, however, so I'll keep it around for a while.

Conclusion: Flattering collar, nice color, keep it for the files of maybe.