Vogue 1100 review and pics

   Pattern Description:  Vogue 1100

Loose-fitting, lined jacket A has two-piece collar, two-piece, three-quarter length raglan sleeves with cuffs, front princess seams, mock welts, inverted back pleat, slightly flared back hemline and single buttonhole and button closure

 Pattern Sizing:6-20

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Fairly easy to follow.   As always, I find the front facing and hem lining the most difficult to accomplish.  I made my lining a hang loose version to allow for the swing of the jacket back.  I think that’s what the Vogue directions were ending up with as well but they never spelled it out directly.  Sometimes you have to hit me with a big beam to get my attention.   Otherwise I think anyone with some sewing experience could handle this one.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I’ve had this pattern for a while.  I particularly enjoyed seeing Annette’s ,  jewelea and merrypatter’s versions since they each gave me some ideas for my own.  I immediately liked the collar on this jacket.  It’s similar to few others I’ve made:  Kwik Sew  3095 and Simplicity  2858.  Like the Simplicity jacket it has princess seams which I think are a girl’s best friend, especially on a jacket that tends to be boxy….but I tend to be boxy in my midsection also.

Fabric Used:  A linen blend that has been in my collection for years.  I bought it in Baltimore at a fabric store that used to be on Erdman Avenue (Maybe called Fabric Warehouse)  I probably bought it in the early 90’s since it has that bright color saturation from back in those days (now being revived in the 80s look of today)  It must have some rayon since it presses nicely but also has a repugnant smell when damp. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I did make a quick muslin and made the collar slightly wider at the back since I too found that it was pulling away from my neck.  I probably should have done a round back alteration but was too lazy to bother in this swing jacket back.  I did a FBA on the princess seams up front and added 1” to the total length.  I did a modified S curve on that princess seam to give the jacket slightly more shaping on the front (can’t find that great Threads article about S shaping under the bust area to bring the princess seam bottom slightly closer to the body) Initially I also added 1 ½ inches to the length of the sleeves.  My boo boo since I was judging the muslin sleeve length without the added cuffs.  I took out 1" of that length when I got around to adding the cuffs in the fashion garment.

I like the saddle stitching that merrypatter did on her jacket so I did something similar. 
I wanted a tone on tone subtle look since I planned on wearing jewelry with this jacket.  I used three threads of embroidery floss and did two rows of stitching around the cuffs, pocket flaps, upper shoulder front, back above the swing pleat and up and down the front and collar.  I actually like handsewing and like the rough texture this gives to the jacket without screaming handmade (I hope.)   I didn’t want it too precise or else I would have used a guide like Tigertape or a basting stitch.

For the hanging lining I did anchor the side seams of the lining to the jacket with thread loops

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/14669/thread-bars

The pocket flaps are simply that, non-functioning flaps and a bit large at that.  I would reduce their width aby about 1" and maybe make a real pocket...although I don't need too much extra in that location.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Simplicity 2858

Hmmmm, not sure I will sew this one again.  I actually ended up liking my Simplicity jacket more.  One reason is the under collar piece of the Simplicity jacket has what I call a modified collar stand.
The collar is therefore supported to stand up and mold around my back neck which I think makes for a more flattering collar.  I hate sewing the Simplicity jacket because it has those annoying square corners for the shawl collar and lining but I think the results are better.  This Vogue collar is much, much, much easier to sew, however, so I'll keep it around for a while.

Conclusion: Flattering collar, nice color, keep it for the files of maybe.