Shannon wrote about this technique Threads 111 issue: Line and Underline in One Step article so I'm not sharing any state secrets with my pictures:
One of the interesting things about this method is that you cut an exact copy of the garment body pieces out of fashion fabric and out of the lining....no separate set of lining pieces. You don't cut a lining for the front pattern piece if you have a facing for the pattern, which I do for this jacket.
This technique has you sew a stack of pieces, two fashion fabrics, right sides together as well as the two lining pieces. Press the seam, trim it to 1/8-1/4" then topstitch from the fashion fabric side nd stitch the lining into place at the same time. By doing that top stitching with a thick but trimmed seam, there's a sort of seam structure built into the garment. But it's also why you have to use a TNT fitted pattern for this technique since alterations are not easy to accomplish. It's not just for jackets. I think it would be wonderful to make a pencil skirt this way.
|Inside seam of my center back|
|Outside topstitched seam|
|Two piece sleeve before turning|
This is about as far as I've gotten this week. Our new air conditioning unit from last August gave out and a new compressor is getting installed tomorrow. So it's terribly hot in my sewing space after using my Singer press to fuse interfacing and then pressing this jacket as I sew. Sort of my own luxury sweatshop here in SW Florida.
In the meantime, I hope more of you look longingly at those vintage Vogue patterns I'm giving away next week. They'll be leaving home one way or another;-)