Wednesday, April 27, 2011

JAM #4 in Progress...a Stitch and Flip Version of S 3884

A year this month Shannon Gifford, the wonderful sewing teacher I met through Patternreview, passed away far, far too soon in her life.  I'm using her technique of stitch and flip lining to make my 4th Jacket a Month this year.  I am using a new TNT pattern, Simplicity 3884, this time with a lightweight pink, fuschia, tangerine and gold tweed cotton/silk blend from Fabric Mart.

 Shannon wrote about this technique Threads 111 issue: Line and Underline in One Step article  so I'm not sharing any state secrets with my pictures:

One of the interesting things about this method is that you cut an exact copy of the garment body pieces out of fashion fabric and out of the separate set of lining pieces.   You don't cut a lining for the front pattern piece if you have a facing for the pattern, which I do for this jacket.
I decided to interface all of the jacket pieces with lightweight knit interfacing, also from Fabric Mart.  I used Fusi Knit on the front and neck facing and that may be  a little too much interfacing happening....we'll see how the final jacket presses.

This technique has you sew a stack of pieces, two fashion fabrics, right sides together as well as the two lining pieces.  Press the seam, trim it to 1/8-1/4" then topstitch from the fashion fabric side nd stitch the lining into place at the same time.  By doing that top stitching with a thick but trimmed seam, there's a sort of seam structure built into the garment.  But it's also why you have to use a TNT fitted pattern for this technique since alterations are not easy to accomplish.  It's not just for jackets.  I think it would be wonderful to make a pencil skirt this way.
Inside seam of my center back
Outside topstitched seam
Two piece sleeve before turning
Only one seam of a two seam sleeve can be topstitched so I chose the upper arm raglan seam for that treatment.

This is about as far as I've gotten this week.  Our new air conditioning unit from last August gave out and a new compressor is getting installed tomorrow.   So it's terribly hot in my sewing space after using my Singer press to fuse interfacing and then pressing this jacket as I sew.  Sort of my own luxury sweatshop here in SW Florida.

In the meantime, I hope more of you look longingly at those vintage Vogue patterns I'm giving away next week.  They'll be leaving home one way or another;-)

1 comment:

  1. This is going to be a lovely jacket! I can't wait to see it.


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